Mount Lavinia is a suburb of Colombo that possesses the nearest beach to the city centre, and is therefore especially convenient for those who are confined to Colombo for part or all of their stay. The beach is adjacent to a headland that juts into the Indian Ocean, atop which is the famous colonial-era Mount Lavinia Hotel. Considering its proximity to the hustle and bustle of Colombo the beach is pleasant enough, and enjoys a quiet atmosphere. There are several beachside restaurants and bars. The sea is usually safe for swimming, but can be rough and you need to be wary of the strong undercurrents typical of this coast.

There are two theories as to the origin of the Westernized name. Governor General Sir Thomas Maitland had built a mansion there in 1805 (now part of the Mount Lavinia Hotel) and had fallen in love with a beautiful low caste dancing girl called Lovina, who was discreetly smuggled into the mansion through a tunnel. But perhaps it’s a corruption of an old name, Lihiniyagala – “rock” or “cliff of the birds”.

   
 
         

Kalutara is the first town outside the Colombo conurbation as you travel south on the coastal Galle Road. When you approach the town from Colombo the striking dagoba of Gangatilaka Vihara, Kalutara’s dominant landmark, looms as you traverse a bridge that spans Sri Lanka’s fourth largest river, the Kalu Ganga (“black river”) - from which the town gets its name – before it enters the sea.

North of this bridge, all the way to Wadduwa (8km), extends a fine catamaran-scattered beach, often deserted, which is ideal for quick dips and long sunset strolls. There are some top-end resort hotels bordering the beach, but there’s not much of an option for budget travellers.

Kalutara was a vital spice-trading centre for the Portuguese, Dutch and British. Although there are few visible remains of the Dutch fort, the Dutch canals that linked the spice plantations – transformed into rubber estates under the British – are reminders of Kalutara’s colonial past.

 
 
         

Bentota combines a number of package resorts plus an excellent selection of upmarket hotels and the National Tourist Resort, which comprises a shopping centre, post office and a market. The town has long been a tourist haven, for in the 19th century, when Galle was the island’s main port, those proceeding to Colombo in stagecoaches stopped here at the rest-house (long gone) and indulged in local oysters!

Bentota is Sri Lanka’s water-sports centre. The sea here is calm and an excellent diving location. The beach divides into two, the north end comprising a spit of land – dubbed “Paradise Island” - dividing the waves of the Indian Ocean from the still waters of the Bentota Lagoon, while the more pleasing southern end comprises an attractive swathe of wide sandy beach where some of the island’s best upmarket hotels are located. Surprisingly, although Bentota is one of the island’s most popular resorts, the beach is relatively quiet.

   
 
 
         

There is only one town that can boast of some of the best surfing waves in Sri Lanka, a long stretch of beach packed with restaurants serving fresh seafood, an equally long stretch of souvenir shops for the serious shopper, and guesthouses and hotels galore, from the cheap and cheerful to star-class. The name of the place is Hikkaduwa, and there is no other resort on the island like it.

The foreign influx began in the mid-19th century, when ‘picnic parties’ were regularly held here and it became a stopping place for the Galle to Colombo stagecoach. The second influx came in the 1960s, when American and Australian surfers discovered the waves here and at Arugam Bay on the east coast. Soon the town became a surfing paradise, attracting not only surfers but fun-seeking visitors of all types.

   
 
 
 
   
         

Unawatuna is a fishing village blessed with a beautiful sandy bay fringed with palm trees. Science-fiction author Arthur C Clarke was so enchanted by the “exquisite arc of beach,” that he once made it his second home. To many visitors, Unawatuna is simply Sri Lanka’s best, a view endorsed by the Discovery Channel, which has rated the beach one of the ten best in the world.

Unawatuna is protected by a double reef and is therefore one of the safest beaches in Sri Lanka for swimming. You can snorkel in the clear blue waters of the bay. It is a great place for surfing and diving. Or you can go fishing or snorkelling out to sea by using the traditional catamarans dotting the beach.

Many restaurants line the whole curve of beach with sun beds enticingly placed outside. Because there are no big hotel complexes here, and no busy road, it is a favourite of tourists staying a few months. With welcoming villagers and an unforgettable ambience, it is easy to see why.

   
 
   
         

Arugam village is situated in the bay of the same name on one of the nicest stretches of the south east coast with many miles of pristine beaches, It was once occupied by the Dutch as a military post and had a small mud fort. For the past quarter-century, however, it has been seasonally occupied by cosmopolitan surfers attracted by the waves and discerning travellers who appreciate the splendour of its isolation.

The curved sandy bay is wide and long. There are no big hotel complexes towering over the beach, which at many places is lined with a multitude of brightly coloured fishing boats. That there are empty spaces between restaurants and guesthouses is striking when you have been used to seeing how crowded and developed most west and southern coast beach spots are.

During May to October, which is dry season on the east coast, the bay becomes safe for swimming, and best for surfing. There are some beautiful coral reefs and an unbelievable number of tropical fish to be seen in and around the area where the best snorkelling, on a calm day, is on the southern tip of the bay.

 
 
   
         

The adjacent beaches of Nilaveli and Uppuveli north of Trincomalee, together 6km in length, are the most favoured by visitors to the region. Nilaveli, especially, has one of the finest beaches in Sri Lanka - the expansive stretches of the island’s typical soft white sand are an ideal location for swimming and sunbathing. From here you can hire a boat to take you to nearby Pigeon Island – so-called because it is home to the rare Blue Rock Pigeon (Columba livia) - which is good for diving and snorkelling.

A more attractive alternative is Coral Island, a few kilometres north of Nilaveli, which unlike Pigeon Island cannot be landed on, but which has a well-preserved reef containing the beautiful cabbage coral and a marvellous variety of dazzling tropical fish. Coral Island is considered by many to be Sri Lanka’s best snorkelling spot. However, the water over the reef becomes quite shallow at low tide, so precautions must be taken not only to avoid cuts and scrapes but also ensure no coral – nowadays so vulnerable – is damaged.

   
 
 
 
 
 
   
 
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